A-Z of Ingredients

+ 1

1,2-Hexanediol This is used for its wax-like properties and is derived from a combination of ethyl alcohol and stearic acid. Ethyl alcohol is the same as ‘rubbing alcohol’, and is used as an antibacterial in mouthwashes, nail enamel, lipsticks, etc.; it’s made by the fermentation of starch, sugar and similar carbohydrates. Stearic acid is a white, waxy natural fatty acid which occurs naturally in bark, butters and animal fats and oils. (NB If you are vegan, you might want to enquire whether companies which use this ingredient source it from plants, or from animal fats.)

2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol We have to say this bactericide is something we don’t really want to find in a natural cosmetic. (Only one product that scored well in our Tried & Testeds featured this preservative – albeit very near the bottom of the ingredients list, which reflects the quantity used.) Ironically, it’s also used widely in baby wipes – because it’s an effective germ-killer. Although determined safe for use in cosmetics (by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments), it scores as a high ‘hazard’ in the Environmental Working Group’s Cosmetic Safety Database. As we say, it’s only present in small doses – probably not enough to worry anyone (particularly as this product is washed off the skin), but we’re a bit surprised it’s still being used in natural products when there are so many other ingredients at a formulator’s fingertips. We have to say this bactericide is something we don’t really want to find in a natural cosmetic. (Only one product that scored well in our Tried & Testeds featured this preservative – albeit very near the bottom of the ingredients list, which reflects the quantity used.) Ironically, it’s also used widely in baby wipes – because it’s an effective germ-killer. Although determined safe for use in cosmetics (by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments), it scores as a high ‘hazard’ in the Environmental Working Group’s Cosmetic Safety Database. As we say, it’s only present in small doses – probably not enough to worry anyone (particularly as this product is washed off the skin), but we’re a bit surprised it’s still being used in natural products when there are so many other ingredients at a formulator’s fingertips.

+ A

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer A synthesised film-forming agent which can be used in haircare or skincare, especially moisturisers, because it leaves a smooth feel.

Acrylates copolymer A synthesised ingredient used as a film-former and hair fixative.

Adenosine phosphate Used to bind water and moisture in a product; it forms one of the building blocks of nucleic acid, which has a vital role in cell metabolism.

Algin A type of carbohydrate, derived from brown seaweed.

Alumina A derivative of aluminium which occurs in nature as bauxite or corundum, and is used as an anti-caking and bulking agent. It has no known skin toxicity, but high concentrations of alumina can be irritating if breathed in – more likely, we have to say, for an alumina miner than even the most slavish of cosmetic ‘junkies’ (especially if you’re encountering alumina in a lotion or cream rather than a powder form…)

Alcohol denat ‘Denat’ (which is short for ‘denatured’) means that the alcohol has been altered, so that it can’t get you drunk, or inebriate you in any way. (Believe it or not, in some ‘dry’ countries, perfume – for instance – is drunk by some very desperate people!) It’s derived from the fermentaton of starch, sugar and similar carbohydrates, and is used in a wide range of products including toners, suntan lotions, perfumes and acne products. Alcohol can be drying to the skin, as it has strong grease-dissolving powers.

Allantoin A botanical ingredient derived from comfrey, which is healing, soothing and anti-irritant, and may aid the healing of damaged skin.

Alpha glucan oligosaccharides This is obtained from natural sugars (sucrose and maltose), through the use of enzymes.

Alpha-isomethyl ionone A synthetic fragrance, generally used in tiny amounts (as are most fragrance ingredients). According to the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database, this is a ‘Low hazard’ (it scores 2/10). It is also used as a food additive. This has to be listed on labels because this fragrance element has been linked, in some cases, to skin sensitivity.

Alpha-lipoic acid Used as a powerful antioxidant in skin creams ‘to fight age damage’, and derived mainly from dietary sources such as brewer’s yeast.

Aluminum chlorohydrate A salt derived from aluminium, which is considered by cosmetics manufacturers to be one of the least irritating aluminium salts (although in some people it can cause irritation, especially on shaved or abraded skin). It is one of the most frequently used anti-perspirant ingredients.

Aluminium hydroxide A mild alkaline astringent form of aluminium which is generally used in toothpaste, antiperspirants and dusting powders, with no known skin toxicity. It is also used in bread-making.

Aluminium stearate A form of stearic acid used as a thickening agent and to regulate a product’s stability, primarily in soaps, and also as an anti-caking agent in (for instance) instant coffee.

Aminomethyl propanediol Synthetically-derived crystals from nitrogen compounds, this is a kind of alcohol mostly used in hair products to adjust pH, or as an emulsifier.

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer Synthetic, film-forming thickener and stabilising ingredient, for all sorts of products: hand creams, sunscreens, foot creams, body lotions and facial moisturisers.

Ammonium alum Colourless, odourless, water-soluble ingredient derived from an ‘earth mineral’; no specific harmful effects have been noted in cosmetics and it is also found in small quantities in many of the foods we eat. A powerful anti-bacterial, often used in deodorants/anti-perspirants.

Ammonium glycyrrhizate Another name for Licorice root, this helps to form gels, stabilise emulsions – and is also used to soothe skin irritations and regulate pH levels.

Amodimethicone A synthetic polymer-like ingredient with skin-softening and conditioning – see also Dimethicone under ‘D‘ – here.

Amyl cinnamal A fragrance ingredient; Cinnamal is one of the most common allergens, and must be listed as a separate fragrance component on labels because of this.

Anisyl alcohol A fragrance ingredient which has been cited as ‘a moderately frequent cause of allergic contact dermatitis’, according to the Department of Dermatology, UCSF School of Medicine, San Francisco, but likely to be present in incredibly low quantities in most products.

Arachidyl behenate A waxy alcohol made from Arachidyl alcohol and Behenic acid. Arachidyl alcohol is sometimes isolated from animal liver, while Behenic acid is a colourless, water-soluble element which can be sourced from seed fats, animal fats and marine animal oils.

Arginine A strongly alkaline amino acid, which is particularly useful for its softening effect in hair conditioners.

Ascorbyl glucoside An extremely stable form of vitamin C, used as an antioxidant.

Ascorbyl palmitate A salt of vitamin C, used as a preservative and antioxidant in creams and lotions.

Aspartic acid An amino acid that occurs naturally in sugar beet, sugar cane, molasses and other plants, although it can also be created synthetically (and there’s no way to tell from the label). Used to make skin smooth, and is most often found in products for dry skin.

Astaxanthin A yellow colouring which is found naturally in animal organisms, and is used as a fish food for salmon to give that characteristic pink shade. Allowed as a general food colouring, and used in cosmetics as a colourant and also to boost skin’s condition.

Azo dyes Azo pigments are colourless particles (typically earths or clays), which have been coloured using an azo compound. Azo pigments are important in a variety of paints including artist’s paints. They have excellent colouring properties, but there are some health question marks over azo dyes – mostly by inhalation, or from eating them (or from working closely with them – for instance in hairdressing, or the clothing industry). Some azo dyes can also be irritating to skin.

+ B

Babassuamidopropalkonium chloride Derived from Babassu oil, this is a ‘quaternary ammonium’ (see Quaternary ammonium compounds under ‘Q’ here), which works well to fight frizz and static in hair products.

Babassuamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate Synthesised from the fatty acids in Babassu oil; See Quaternary ammonium compounds under ‘Q’ here.

Barium sulfate Also known as ‘Blanc fixe’ or listed as CI 77120 and a salt of barium, which is an earth metal, used generally as a white colouring. Many members of the Barium family are skin irritants, and cause rashes; this ingredient is not an approved colourant for use in the USA.

Behenyl alcohol – also known as Docosanol, a mixture of fatty alcohols derived from Behenic acid, which is a minor component of vegetable oils and animal fats. It’s often used to stabilise products or make them more opaque.

Behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate A synthetic emulsifying wax, generally used in hair products.

Behentrimonium chloride A synthetic preservative. See also Quaternary ammonium compounds under ‘Q’ here.

Behentrimonium methosulfate Used in hair conditioners and relaxers, facial moisturisers and age-defying treatments and antiperspirants. See also Quaternary ammonium compounds under ‘Q‘ here.

Bentonite A white clay, found primarily in the USA and Canada; it’s non-toxic, but can clog pores.

Benzoic acid Preservative that naturally occurs in cherry bark, cherries, anise, tea and cassia bark, which is also approved for limited use in food production. In common with many preservatives, benzoates (including benzoic acid) have been linked with problems such as eczema or asthma; they are very ‘active’ – ie effective at preventing bugs from breeding. Benzoic acid can be mildly irritating but tends to feature in formulations in small quantities, way down the ingredients list; most people have no problem with this ingredient but if you have a history of asthma or urticaria (hives), you may want to avoid it.

Benzyl alcohol Used in perfumes and as a preservative, it’s also a topical antiseptic and can be highly irritating, in some cases. It occurs naturally in many plants – including jasmine and hyacinth – but can also be synthesised from petrochemicals.

Benzyl benzoate Occurs naturally in Balsam Tolu and Balsam Peru (which are resins), it can be used as a plasticiser in nail polish and a fixative for perfumes. It’s considered to have extremely low toxicity for humans, but you should avoid contact with eyes or mucous membranes, which can be irritated by this ingredient.

Benzyl salicylate Another name for salicylic acid, this is a fixative ingredient in perfumery, and often used in sunscreens, too. For some individuals, this ingredient can be irritating and trigger rashes – but everyone’s different…

Betaine Derived from beets and other vegetables, with no known toxicity. A form of betaine – coco-betaine (short for cocamidopropyl betaine) is proving very useful to formulators as an alternative to foaming ingredients like Sodium lauryl sulfate in shampoos and body washes.

BHT Short for Butylated hydroxytoluene; a preservative and antioxidant used in foods and drinks as well as cosmetics (although prohibited as a food additive in the UK). This synthetic ingredient has been known to cause allergic reactions.

Bisabolol Derived from camomile, with soothing, anti-inflammatory properties.

Bifida ferment lysate Milk-derived ingredient which is a product of Bifida, a ‘friendly bacteria’ found in the human digestive system, used in cosmetics as a skin conditioner.

Biosaccharide gum A gum which comes from Sorbitol, which works well as a skin conditioner.

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 What a mouthful! Basically, a synthetic substitute for lanolin. It is often listed with the words (vegetable oil) in brackets, as here – but in reality, it’s a highly adulterated form of vegetable oil. Adipic acid – a main constituent of this ingredient – can be irritant to skin and eyes, as well as mucous membranes, depending on your vulnerability to sensitivity and the levels in a formulation.

Bismuth oxychloride (CI 77163) This occurs naturally in the earth’s crust, is approved as a colourant ingredient and also referred to (in beauty ‘slang’) as ‘synthetic pearl’. It can trigger allergic reactions in some individuals.

Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090) Derived from aluminium, it’s approved as a colour additive by the US FDA (Food and Drink Administration), and is also used in food and drinks. (Also known as ‘Brilliant Blue’.)

Boron nitride Boron occurs naturally in the earth’s crust, and is used in food supplements. Boron nitride, however, is made from boron and nitrogen, and is used in colour cosmetics. In high quantities (much higher than you’ll find in cosmetics), it can be hazardous to health when breathed in.

Brassica campestris/Aleurites fordi oil copolymer A wax blend made of rapeseed oil (non-GM) and Chinese Wood oil; has strong water-resistant properties.

Butylene glycol A synthetic ingredient often used as a ‘humectant’. Considered safe for use in food, and by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association for use in cosmetics.

Butylparaben One of the ‘contentious’ paraben family of preservatives, widely used for its anti-fungal action. Few ingredients trigger such violent debate as parabens. We have always taken a precautionary approach, although it appears that several of the studies that link parabens with breast cancer, for instance, were flawed (or at least flimsy). What is clear is that some parabens can be irritating to skin. The bottom line is that we would welcome much more research into this thorny subject. There are, meanwhile, many alternatives to parabens appearing in formulations as manufacturers find creative ways to avoid using them – partly a response to the fact that so many products are now declaring themselves to be ‘paraben-free’.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Also known as Avobenzone and Parsol 1789, a synthetic ingredient primarily designed to absorb UVA and used in suncare products. Question marks have been raised over this and some other chemical sunscreen ingredients.

Butylphenyl methylpropional A synthetic fragrance ingredient which has been found to be a skin irritant. Tests also showed that in high concentrations, application of BM to animals’ skin caused sperm damage. The concentrations used, however, far exceed anything you’ll be exposed to in regular daily use. (We do not condone animal testing in any way.)

+ C

C12-13 Pareth-3 See Polyethylene glycol, a mixture of synthetic fatty acids and ethylene glycol.

C12-15 alkyl benzoate Blend of synthetic compounds, used in moisturisers, with a preserving effect. There are no known adverse effects for this ingredient.

Caffeine Obtained as a by-product of decaf coffee, it’s used as a stimulant and flavouring in lipsticks (giving that lip-plumping ‘tingle’, in some cases), and helps ingredients to penetrate the skin, while having a locally stimulating effect. It’s most widely used in cellulite treatments because of that circulation-boosting effect, but also in treats for tired and puffy eyes, which are such a widespread challenge. Since all but the most abstemious of us drink plenty of this each day, we wouldn’t say there’s a problem with putting it on the skin, especially as it also has an antioxidant effect.

Calcium silicate Also known as Okenite: an anti-caking ingredient also found in baking powder, so approved for food use. In the beauty world it appears mostly in face powders, because it can be milled extremely finely and absorbs water well.

Calcium sodium borosilicate A thickener, derived from Calcium and Silicates.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride A fatty acid derived from palm, coconut and other plant oils (although it can also be obtained from cow’s or goat’s milk). Also used as a food additive.

Caprylyl glycol A skin-conditioning agent that can be derived from plants, or synthesised. It’s often used as a preservative alongside phenoxyethanol and chloroxylenol.

Carbomer A synthetic thickening agent used to create gel-like products, which according to the most recent info we’ve seen has no known toxicity.

Carboxylic acid A group of ingredients which includes many fatty acids as well as amino acids, Benzoic acids and Salicylic acids.

Castor oil benzoate An ester of Benzoic acid and Castor oil (Ricinus communis), which is soothing to skin.

Castor oil sodium hyaluronate spheres Basically derived from Sodium Hyaluronate and Castor oil (see above), a very useful moisturising and soothing oil.

Centella Asiatica (hydrocotyl) extract Derived from the gotu kola plant – an umbelliferous plant a bit like celery, with wound-healing properties – this has no known toxicity.

Ceramide 3 Ceramides are naturally present in the skin and play an important role in forming a protective barrier, to prevent water loss. They also give skin a feeling of softness. Ceramides can be found in nature (from animals or plants), although it is hard to isolate the pure versions needed for cosmetic use; they are also complicated to synthesise, although be aware that the ingredient Ceramide 3 is a synthetic version.

Ceteareth-20 A synthetic fatty alcohol that is widely-used to thicken ingredients and stop them from separating. It’s not considered suitable for use on injured or damaged skin, and there are reservations about its use in products for use around the lips and eyes – although the single product that it appears in, in our book, is a body scrub, so that conforms to those guidelines. Ingredients like this – created by a process called ‘ethoxylation’ – can in some circumstances be contaminated to produce 1,4-dioxane – a carcinogen – although that’s not to say they will be, provided effective controls are in place.

Ceteareth-33 A lubricating, emollient ingredient – find it in hand creams, cleansers, moisturisers and SPF products – derived from Cetearyl alcohol; see also Polyethylene glyol under ‘P‘.

Cetearyl alcohol – very widely used in natural cosmetics as it has no known toxicity; it can be derived from coconut, or synthesised. It’s used as an emollient, an emulsifier (to help ingredients blend) and as a thickener.

Cetearyl glucoside Created by the condensation of Cetearyl alcohol (see above) with glucose. No known adverse effects.

Cetearyl octanoate An ingredient created from Cetearyl alcohol (see above) and fatty acids from palm oil. No known toxicity.

Cetearyl olivate An ingredient created from Cetearyl alcohol (see above) and fatty acids from olive oil. No known toxicity.

Cetearyl wheat straw glycosides Rather like the couple of ingredients listed above, an ingredient created by the reaction of Cetearyl alchol (see above) with the sugars derived from wheat straw.

Ceteth-2 This is what you get when you mix Lauryl, Stearyl and Oleyl alcohols with Ethylene oxide, creating oily liquids or wax-like solids. Used to create smooth formulations.

Cetrimonium chloride Very popular in hair conditioners and styling products, this is a synthetic ingredient. See: Quaternary ammonium compound under ‘Q‘. It can be irritating and sensitising, at the very least, and ideally the products it appears in should be rinsed off the skin.

Cetyl acetate Most often found in hand lotions, this is derived from Cetyl alcohol and Acetic acid (vinegar is about 4 to 6 per cent Acetic acid, and it also occurs naturally in apples, cocoa, oranges, pineapples, etc.).

Cetyl alcohol Very widely used natural cosmetics – everything from baby lotions to antiperspirants and foundations, this can be naturally derived or synthetic. In many ingredients, the word ‘alcohol’ can be confusing – because they’re not related to ethyl alcohol at all, and so doesn’t have a characteristic drying effect. (On the contrary, it’s an emollient, and also helps to stabilise products.

Cetyl esters Derived from Cetyl alcohol – see also the entry for Esters under ‘E‘.

Cetyl ethylhexanoate A synthetic ester of Cetyl alcohol (see above) and 2-ethylhexanoic acid. (Well, you wanted to know!) In animal tests (which we are deeply against), it has been found to be an irritant. It’s a replacement for Spermaceti wax, which comes from whales – which is definitely not something we’d want to find in a cosmetic (although it was very popular, decades ago…)

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 Also known as Cetyl dimethicone; dimethicone is a silicone derived polymer which gives a silky feel to skin. (There is some thought that Dimethicone can be pore-blocking, because it’s film-forming.)

Cetyl ricinoleate Made from a combination of natural fatty acids (coconut oil) and sugars. It acts as a stabiliser, giving the product a natural consistency. No known adverse effects.

Chlorphenesin An alcohol used as a germicide. Considered ‘low hazard’ by the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database.

Cholesterol Occurs naturally in animal fats and oils, egg yolks, etc. and is useful as a lubricating ingredient in a wide range of moisturisers, shine-boosters and shampoos etc.

Chromium hydroxide green (CI 77289) A mined mineral pigment derived from chromium.

Chromium oxide greens (CI 77288) As above.

CI 14700 (also known as FD&C red 504) This coal-tar derived colourant used to be approved for food, although that’s been withdrawn. Considered ‘low hazard’ by the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database.

CI 15850 (also known as D&C red 6 lake) A synthetic red disodium salt of an Azo dye.

CI 15850:1 (Red 7 lake) See above, but derived originally from a calcium salt. (Red 6 and Red 7 have the same CI number.)

CI 15880 (also known as D&C red 34 lake) Red coloured Azo pigment, allowed in all products except eye products.

CI 15985 (also known as FD&C yellow 6 lake, and as E110, a food colourant that goes by the name of Sunset yellow) A synthetic Azo dye.

CI 16035 (also known as FD&C red 40) Can be derived from animal, plant and synthetic sources, and may be a coal tar derivative; also approved for use in food.

CI 17200 (also known as FD&C red 33) A coal-tar derived colourant; c onsidered ‘low hazard’ by the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database; it’s allowed in the US in all products except eye products, and in quantities under 3% in lip cosmetics.

CI 19140 (also known as FD&C yellow 5) A coal-tar derived colourant; considered ‘low hazard’ by the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database. Also known as Tartrazine , which is still widely used in food as a yellow colourant (although pressure groups are campaigning to have it removed because of its links to hyperactivity). Not allowed in eye products in the USA.

CI 42090 (also known as FD&C acid blue 9). Ammonium salt. Considered ‘low hazard’ by the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database.

CI 45380 (Red 22 lake, or Acid red 87) A synthetic red colourant which may cause photosensitivity in some people.

CI 45410 (Red 27 lake) Synthetic red colourant; allowed in all cosmetics except eye products.

CI 45410 (Red 28 lake) See above, Red 27 lake.

CI 47005 (Yellow 10 lake) A synthetic coal tar dye allowed in all products; also in food (E105).

CI 73360 (also known as D&C Red No. 30) A synthetic coal tar dye allowed in all products (except for eye products) on sale in the US.

CI 75470 (also known as Natural Red 4) Carmine, a natural organic dye that is made from the dried bodies of the female insect Coccus cacti which lives on various cactus plants. It has been used as a pigment for millennia, and is one of the most natural dyestuffs. Although not, of course, vegan, it is cruelty-free since only the (already)-dead bodies are used.

CI 75810 Chlorophyllin-copper-complex Basically, from plant chlorophyll (the natural green colourant), together with copper.

CI 77120 A white mineral (although this can also be artificially produced). See also Barium Sulfate under ‘B’.

CI 77007 Ultramarine, a mined blue mineral.

CI 77288 Chromium oxide greens, from chromium (a mined mineral).

CI 77410 Ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, or iron oxide.

CI 77491 Ferric oxide, or red iron oxide.

CI 77492 Ferric oxide, or yellow iron oxide.

CI 77499 Ferric oxide, or black iron oxide.

CI 77510 Ferric ferrocyanicide, also known as iron blue – a blue pigment with no known toxicity.

CI 77713 Magnesium carbonate – a natural mineral which can also be produced artificially and used as a white colourant.

CI 77742 Manganese violet, a mined mineral.

CI 77891 Titanium dioxide, a mined mineral.

Cinnamal Occurs naturally in cinnamon bark, cassia bark extract and root oils; it is one of the most common allergens, and must be listed as a separate fragrance component on labels because of this.

Cinnamyl alcohol Occurs naturally in Balsam of Peru, cinnamon leaves and hyacinth flowers – and smells deliciously of hyacinth. Has to be listed as a separate fragrance component on labels because it is known to trigger sensitivity in some people.

Citral Used in perfumes, colognes and soaps because of its lemony, verbena-y scent, this occurs naturally in grapefruit, lemon and lime oils; it is one of the most common allergens, and must be listed as a separate fragrance component on labels because of this.

Citric acid Derived from citrus fruit, it’s used as a preservative or to adjust pH balance. This is an ‘AHA’ (alpha-hydroxy acid) and can cause sun sensitivity if used in high quantities.

Citronellol Naturally occurring component of essential oils of rose, lemon oil, lemongrass oil; it can be skin-sensitising, and must be listed as a separate fragrance component on labels because of this.

Citronellyl methylcrotonate A synthetic ester of Citronellol (see above) and 3-methylcrotonic acid.

Cocamide DEA Widely-used derivative of coconut oil, used as a foam booster and thickener. Can be skin irritating, and, in addition, is one of the family of ‘alkyloamides’, which can combine with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives in cosmetics, with concerns that they may form carcinogens. However, there are a lot of ‘cans’ and ‘coulds’ in that sentence, and of all the alkyloamides, this is generally considered the least problematic.

Cocamide MEA See above.

Cocamidopropyl betaine Useful in hair conditioners because it has an anti-static effect, and as a surfactant (cleansing ingredient). Derived from Cocamide (from coconut) and Glycine betaine (generally from wheat or sugar beet). It is hoped that by allowing the use of this ingredient in Soil Association-certified products, this will encourage production of an organic surfactant – which will make it far easier to produce a certified organic shampoo than is currently possible.

Coco glucoside A cleansing ingredient obtained by the condensation of coconut alcohol with glucose (from sugar).

Copper gluconate This pale blue, ultra-fine powder (derived from copper) is used as a food colouring as well as to colour cosmetics.

Coumarin Fragrance ingredient found in plants and derived from the animo acid phenylalanine, this delivers a fragrance of ‘new-mown hay’; it can be skin-sensitising, and must be listed as a separate fragrance component on labels because of this.

Cyclomethicone A silicone ingredient with a ‘dry’ finish, popular in deodorants, suntan gels, eye make-up removers, lipsticks etc. Synthesised from silica, which occurs in 12% of all rocks (sand, for instance, is a silica). No known toxicity although, because these are film-forming and water-repellant, they can block pores.

Cyclopentasiloxane A silicone fluid used in deodorants, sunblocks, haircare and skincare, and increasingly in conditioners as it makes hair easier to brush without breakage. (This emollient is also used as part of silicone-based personal lubricants!)

+ D

Decyl cocoate Gentle cleansing agent created from coconut oil reacting with an ingredient from coconut called decanol. Non-toxic and non-irritating, which is why it’s being increasingly used in natural bodycare.

Decyl glucoside See above, but in this case, from elements in corn. Allowed under organic guidelines.

Dehydroacetic acid A synthetic fungicide and bactericide which is not allowed to be used in aerosol products, and only in very small concentrations. However, as this is a preservative – and only used in the teensiest amounts – it’s classified as a low ‘hazard’ in the Environmental Working Group’s Cosmetic Safety Database.

Dextrin A white powder also known as Starch gum or British gum; used in cosmetics as a thickener. In some people, it can trigger an allergic reaction.

Dextrin palmitate A semi-synthetic ingredient used as a thickener and emulsifier. (NB Be aware that some palmitates have been linked with contact dermatitis.)

Diazlolidinyl urea A semi-synthetic or synthetic antiseptic and deodoriser, which is also used as a preservative against bacteria and fungi. It may be a mild cumulative skin irritant in humans, and may release Formaldehyde, in some circumstances.

Dicaprylyl carbonate Comes from Carbonic acid and Caprylyl alcohol, and is used in sunscreens, age-defying creams and also in treatments for redness and rosacea.

Dicaprylyl maleate From Caprylyl alcohol and Maleic acid (which is a preservative for fats and oils, and also a pH adjuster). Used in all sorts of cosmetics products from turn-back-the-clock ‘miracle’ creams to acne treatments.

Dichlorobenzyl alcohol A synthetic preservative – see also Benzyl alcohol under ‘B’ – here.

Diethylhexyl succinate Also known as Succinic acid or Butanedioc acid; occurs in fossils, fungi, etc. and is used as a germicide and also a fragrance ingredient. This has been classified as a low ‘hazard’ in the Environmental Working Group’s Cosmetic Safety Database.

Dihydroxyacetone Also known as DHA. This ingredient – generally obtained by the action of particular bacteria on glycerol (from sugar) – is found in most fake tans, and is used to turn skin brown – although this reaction provides no natural protection from UV rays, unlike a real tan. It works by reacting with amino acids found in the skin’s epidermal layer. Can be sensitising for some users.

Diisostearyl malate Derived from a combination of Isostearyl acid and Malic acid (an AHA ‘fruit acid’ from apples). We’re trying to find out more about this ingredient because it’s not widely used and info is elusive; however, we can tell you it’s c lassified as a low ‘hazard’ in the Environmental Working Group’s Cosmetic Safety Database, but that’s partly due to lack of available data (as we found!) Only used in teensy quantities, though.

Dimethicone A synthesised silicone fluid which is used as a base in creams and ointments, and helps to create a silky feel; it’s also designated as safe for use in food, with very low toxicity.

Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer See above; however, not approved as a food additive.

Dimethiconol An anti-foaming and skin conditioning ingredient (used in blushers, moisturisers etc.) which is very similar to Dimethicone, see above.

Dimethiconol meadowfoamate See above, but derived from Meadowfoam (as the name suggests!)

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline A fatty ingredient made with amino acids, and derived from plants such as palm oil. Said to have anti-ageing properties.

Dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate A mix of an extract of algae and Rosin (from pine trees), to create an ingredient used in many make-up items, including lipstick, eyeliner, concealer, blusher etc.

Dipentene (D-Limonene) Naturally occurring in star anise, caraway, celery, oranges, cumin, fennel, marigold and more, this compound has to be listed on labels because it is one of the most common allergens.

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate A salt derived from Glycyrrhizic acid, extracted from Licorice.

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate A foaming agent derived from coconuts, used as a dispersant and surfactant; can be irritating to eyes (like many foaming ingredients).

Disodium cocoyl glutamate Considered to be a very gentle detergent for skin and hair, derived from coconut oil and fermented sugar; environmentally-friendly and well-tolerated by allergic skintypes. It’s approved for use by the European organisation BDIH, which certifies ‘naturalness’ in cosmetics.

Disodium EDTA This synthetic ingredient is used to help adjust the viscosity of a product, and to stabilise; there are some concerns because it seems it may alter skin’s structure, allowing easier penetration of other ingredients.

Disteardimonium hectorite This is what’s known as a ‘Quaternary ammonium compound’: a wide family of preservatives, germicides and antiseptics, in this case created by a reaction with hectorite (a mineral). Diluted solutions are used in medicine to sterilise skin. Used as a ‘suspending agent’, often with pigments.

+ E

Esculin An extract from the leaves and bark of horse chestnut.

Esters Light oils Oils used as cosmetic emollients.

Ethoxydiglycol Alcohol compound widely used as a solvent or fragrance ingredient in tanning products, cleansing creams and moisturisers. Ingredients like this – created by a process called ‘ethoxylation’ – canbe contaminated to produce 1,4-dioxane – a carcinogen – although that’s not to say they will be, provided effective controls are in place.

Ethyl alcohol The same as ‘rubbing alcohol’, and is used as an antibacterial in mouthwashes, nail enamel, lipsticks, etc.; it’s made by the fermentation of starch, sugar and similar carbohydrates.

Ethyl macadamiate A mixture of fatty acids from macadamia nut oil and alcohol.

Ethylhexyl palmitate An ester of 2-ethylhexylalcohol and Palmitic acid (Palmitic acid is present in allspice, anise, celery seed, coffee, tea and many animal fats and plant oils); some Palmitates have been linked to contact dermatitis.

Ethylhexylglycerin A preservative derived from glycerine which has been linked in some people with allergic contact dermatitis; however, it’s quite widely used in natural cosmetics in very small quantities, way down the ingredients list where it shouldn’t be problematic.

Ethylhexyl salicylate Approved by the US FDA (Food & Drink Administration) as a sunscreen ingredient, which absorbs UVB (burning) rays.

Eugenol Extracted from certain essential oils, including clove oil, nutmeg, cinnamon and bay leaf; it can be skin-sensitising, and must by law be listed as a separate fragrance component on labels because of this.

+ F

Farnesol Used in perfumery to emphasise floral perfumes, such as lilac; occurs naturally in the seeds of ambrette, star anise, rose, neroli, cassia and linden flowers, among others. In addition to being used for fragrance, it is a natural preservative.

Fragrance (Parfum) Fragrances are complex blends and – unlike any other cosmetics – it’s not required that every single ingredient be listed on the label. Why? Because of the extreme commercial sensitivity of fragrance blends (if Chanel No. 5 listed everything on the label, for instance, it would be ‘knocked off’ in no time.) Under cosmetics labelling laws, although fragrances are exempt from this full listing, certain ingredients must now be declared – including Coumarin, Geraniol, Limonene etc. – because they are known sensitisers. That way, anyone who knows they are allergic to a specific ingredient can avoid the product. In general, most natural cosmetics of the kind we assessed for The Green Beauty Bible will be fragranced with essential oils, as these offer an excellent ‘palette’ for perfumers to work with. Problem is, there’s no way to tell from the label if that’s totally the case…

+ G

Galactaric acid A chelating agent derived from apple pectin.

Galactoarabinan A moisture-binding and moisture-retaining ingredient – derived from larch trees – which has a mild, non-irritating exfoliating action. Also used in sweeteners.

Geraniol A fragrance element derived from rose oil, palmarosa oil and citronella. It must by law be listed as a separate fragrance component on labels because it is known to cause perfume allergies in some people.

Gluceth-20 (also known as Methyl Glyceth-20). Produced from Glucose (usually corn sugar) and Methyl alcohol; a gentle and effective humectant and moisturiser.

Gluconolactone A poly-hydroxy acid created from milk sugar. It’s one of the newer generation of AHA ‘fruit acids’, and is said to be gentler than some of the earlier versions, used as a skin-brightener. Also doubles as a fragrance ingredient in products like shampoos.

Glucose oxidase Found in honey, this enzyme can act as an effective natural preservative.

Glyceryl caprylate A semi-synthetic mixture derived from Caprylic acid and Glycerine; some glyceryl derivatives have been linked with contact dermatitis; it is also a ‘penetration enhancer’, according to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments.

Glyceryl dibehenate A mixture derived from Glycerine and Behenic acid (which is a water-soluble component of animal fats, seed fats and marine mammal oils).

Glyceryl monolaurate We can’t find out a great deal about this particular glyceryl ingredient. There are lots of glyceryls, which are largely synthetic, although as natural skincare guru Aubrey Hampton puts it, ‘with perhaps a drop or two of natural fatty acids in them. Some glyceryls have been linked to contact dermatitis.

Glyceryl stearate Glycerine-derived ingredient widely used as an emulsifier and conditioning element in make-up, powders, creams, lotions, etc.

Glyceryl stearate citrate A citric acid ester of Glyceryl stearate (see above).

Glyceryl stearate SE See above.

Glycol distearate This widely-used surfactant (foaming and cleansing ingredient) is made from Glycerine and Stearic acid. Also used to make products more opaque. (Glycols mean ‘glycerine’ plus ‘alcohol’; the family includes Propylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Ethylene glycol, etc.); some glycols have been linked with eczema.

+ H

Hectorite A natural mineral, derived from bentonite clay.

Hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate Synthetic ingredients derived from Stearic acid; used in small quantities in lipsticks, blushers, eyeliners, etc.

Hexyl laurate See Lauric acid under ‘L‘; a mild and gentle emollient which is non-irritating and gives a velvety feel to skin.

Hexyl cinnamal A fragrance ingredient that is a mixture of Heyxyl alcohol and Cinnamic acid; cinnamates can be allergenic.

Hexyldecanol See Cetyl alcohol under ‘C‘. Used as an emollient and an exfoliant, too.

Hexyldecyl laurate Mostly used for its skin conditioning powers; see Lauric acid under ‘L‘.

Hexylene glycol A synthetic solvent which can in some cases cause irritation to skin, eyes and mucous membranes.

Hyaluronic acid A natural moisturiser which is found in high concentrations in the skin (and can be derived from animal or non-animal sources, ie from bacterial fermentation). It’s incredibly widely used.

Hydrogenated castor oil Hydrogenation is the process of adding natural hydrogen gas, under pressure, to oils – which solidifies them. It can be useful in the manufacture of natural cosmetics because it takes the place of chemicals that do the same job – although there are still discussions going on as to whether it should be allowed for Soil Association organically-certified cosmetics. (Hydrogenation is not allowed for organic foodstuffs, because of potential health risks; however, we only ingest a small amount of cosmetics – even lipsticks – so the debate is whether that’s relevant when it comes to skincare, bodycare and make-up.) So Hydrogenated castor oil is simply castor oil that’s been solidified in this way.

Hydrogenated coco glycerides See above – this is basically an ingredient of coconut oil that has been solidified.

Hydrogenated coconut oil See above.

Hydrogenated cottonseed oil See above.

Hydrogenated palm glycerides See above – in this case, the source is Palm oil.

Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate See above.

Hydrogenated palm kernel glycerides See above.

Hydrogenated palm oil See above.

Hydrogenated vegetable oil See above.

Hydrogenated polyisobutene In this case, a synthetic ingredient (rather than a natural oil), which is again used as a moisturiser and skin conditioner.

Hydrolysed hibiscus esculentus extract See above – here from the Hibiscus plant.

Hydrolysed mucopolysaccharides This is a mixture of polysaccharides (sugars), derived from animal connective tissue – so a product with this ingredient would not be suitable for vegans, for instance. Useful for its water-binding properties.

Hydrolysed whole wheat protein An ingredient derived from wheat protein by the use of an acid or enzyme.

Hydroxycitronellal Generally used as a fragrance element, this synthetic ingredient is a known irritant.

Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde An aldehydyic fragrance ingredient. (NB Coco Chanel was the first to popularise aldehydes in perfumery when Ernst Beaux created the legendary Chanel No. 5 for her – so these ingredients have been around since the 1920s.) Must be listed on ingredients labels – unlike so many thousands of fragrance ingredients – because it is a known irritant and sensitiser.

Hydrolysed wheat gluten See above for wheat protein.

Hydrolysed sweet almond protein See above – in this case, the ingredient is derived from sweet almond.

Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde A synthetic aldehydic fragrance ingredient.

Hydroxyethylcellulose A modified cellulose ingredient (from plant cells, particularly wood pulp), used as a binding ingredient, stabiliser and thickener.

Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose Another cellulose-derived ingredient which, with foaming properties. In some cases it can be a mild skin and eye irritant, but it is also used as a food additive.

Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate Derived from starch, and used for its cleansing and thickening action in body washes, shampoos, wet wipes, etc.

+ I

Isononyl isononanoate Occurs in cocoa and oil of lavender, from which an ester is produced by a reaction between alcohol and nonanoic acid (which occurs in geranium).

Inositol Derived from corn, this belongs to the vitamin B family.

Iodopropynol butylcarbonate A widely-used preservative which can be irritating and allergenic; it should not be used in more than an 0.1 per cent concentration, and is not allowed in aerosol products.

Iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) See CI 77491, CI 77492 and CI 77499 for more info under ‘C‘.

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate A sunscreen ingredient originally derived from cinnamon; cinnamate ingredients can be allergenic to some skins.

Isobutylparaben One of the ‘contentious’ paraben family of preservatives, widely used for its anti-fungal action. Few ingredients trigger such violent debate as parabens. We have always taken a precautionary approach, although it appears that several of the studies that link parabens with breast cancer, for instance, were flawed (or at least flimsy). Some parabens, however, can be irritating. The bottom line is that we would welcome much more research into this thorny subject. There are many alternatives to parabens appearing in formulations as manufacturers find creative ways to avoid using them – partly a response to the fact that so many brands want to declare themselves ‘paraben-free’.

Isodecyl neopentanoate A synthetic ingredient used as a preservative even in some natural products.

Isoeugenol A fragrance ingredient that smells strongly of vanilla which is derived from Eugenol. It can be skin-sensitising, and must by law be listed as a separate fragrance component on labels because of this.

Isononyl isononanoate A synthetic extract (which can come from lavender and cocoa, originally), it’s used in moisturisers, make-up, sunscreens and hand creams – and also used to create fruit flavourings in both foods and lip products.

Isopropyl jojobate Derived from jojoba oil; valuable for lip glosses, eye creams, anti-agers, blushers and products with an SPF.

Isopropyl palmitate Deployed as a moisturising and thickening ingredient, this ingredient is derived from palm – and is in widespread use.

Isopropylparaben See Isobutylparaben, above, for our thoughts on this family of ingredients.

Isopropyl titanium triisostearate Synthetic compound derived from fatty acids, used in beauty products as an emollient, emulsifier and moisturising element.

Isostearyl acid A complex mixture of fatty acids, similar to Stearic acid – see under ‘S‘.

Isostearyl neopentanoate A synthetic ingredient used as an emollient; it can be pore-blocking.

+ J

Jojoba esters See Esters.

Jojoba wax Peg-80 esters A derivative of jojoba wax, mostly used as a surfactant (see Surfactant under ‘S‘).

+ K

Kaolin A form of natural clay.

Keratin amino acids Derived from the protein that makes up hair, nails, wool, horn etc.

+ L

Lactic acid An Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (a.k.a. ‘fruit acid’) derived from milk; AHAs may cause sensitivity in the skin as they remove the outer cells.

Lactoperoxidase An enzyme from milk, sugar or whey, which is used as a moisturiser and to help regulate sebum production. Can help reduce clogged pores (blackheads).

Laureth-2 An ingredient synthesised from Lauryl alcohol. Ingredients like this – created by a process called ‘ethoxylation’ – canbe contaminated to produce 1,4-dioxane – a carcinogen – although that’s not to say they will be, provided effective controls are in place.

Laureth-3 As above, an ingredient synthesised from Lauryl alcohol.

Lauric acid Also known as n-Dodecanoic acid, find this in vegetable fats – in particular, laurel oil and coconut oil. It is the base ingredient in countless soaps, shampoos and detergents – think Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and many others), because of its excellent foaming action. It can be a mild irritant but should not permanently sensitise skin; some experts say it can be pore-blocking.

Lauroyl lysine A derivative of Lysine, an amino acid, which is an excellent skin conditioning agent.

Lauryl glucoside A very mild surfactant which is increasingly widely used in natural cosmetics for its gentleness.

Lauryl lactate An Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA/fruit acid) which can cause skin sensitivity.

Lauryl laurate A stabiliser and binder – see Lauric acid.

Lauryl peg-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone A synthetic silicone-derived surfactant (see Surfactant under ‘S‘).

Lecithin A naturally moisturising ingredient from soya, sunflower seeds, egg yolks etc.

Levulinic acid This white, crystalline ingredient is prepared from inulin, starch etc., and is used as a fragrance ingredient and as an effective skin conditioner.

Limonene Naturally occurring in star anise, caraway, celery, oranges, cumin, fennel, marigold and more, this compound has to be listed on labels because it is one of the most common allergens.

Linalool A compound found in lavender oil which has to be listed on labels because it’s one of the most common allergens.

Lipo-filling complex (saccharomyces/xylinum , black tea ferment and hydroxyethylcellulose) This is a proprietary blend of ingredients (present only in an Avalon product, in The Green Beauty Bible) based on ingredients derived from sugar, black tea and cellulose. As a phrase, ‘Lipo-filling’ is pretty meaningless; in cosmetic surgery it’s the term used for fat injections, so we are assuming that Avalon use this to ‘plump up’ the skin.

Lycopene A powerful antioxidant (with a red colour), found in tomatoes, grapefruit, rose hips and paprika.

Lysolecithin A product obtained by treating lecithin with enzymes, usually to create a base for creams.

+ M

Magnesium aluminium silicate Also known as Fuller’s Earth, a refined and purified cosmetic clay.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate A stabilised, synthetically derived version of vitamin C, primarily used as an antioxidant in sunscreen products.

Magnesium chloride A natural salt of Magnesium, which you may find in a shampoo.

Magnesium nitrate Produced by the reaction of Magnesium oxide with Nitric acid. Nitrates are preservatives (Sodium nitrate, for instance, is used in cured meats, and is also known as Saltpetre).

Maltodextrin A sugar obtained from starch, and used as a ‘film-former’, and to condition skin and hair.

Manganese gluconate Manganese is a naturally-occurring mineral; this ingredient (which is synthesised from Gluconic acid) is said to hydrate and rejuvenate skin.

Manganese violet A mined mineral, which is also listed as CI 77742. Used in colour cosmetics.

Menthone glycerin acetal Flavouring ingredient derived from the mint herb.

Methylchloroisothiazolinone This was introduced into cosmetic formulations to replace Formaldehyde; it’s used as a preservative in a broad range of products (from shampoo to aftershave); can cause allergies and contact dermatitis.

Methyl glucose dioleate An ester of Methyl glucoside and Oleic acid. Methyl glucoside is present in all parts of the rose (flower, leaves, stems etc.), but can also be synthesised from a reaction between methanol and glucose.

Methyl glucose sesquistearate A semi-synthetic ingredient created from Methyl glucoside and Stearic acid; according to at least one source, it may cause dermatitis in some individuals.

Methylheptly isostearate An ester of Caprylic alcohol and Isostearic acid.

Methylisothiazolinone A preservative. Not one of our all-time favourite ingredients, because it is a known sensitiser which can cause allergic reactions. Because of that, its use in many countries is restricted to very tiny concentrations in a finished product.

Methyl 2-octynoate A synthetic fragrance ingredient which must be listed as a separate fragrance component on labels because it is known to cause perfume allergies in some people.

Methylparaben One of the ‘contentious’ paraben family of preservatives, widely used for its anti-fungal action. Few ingredients trigger such violent debate as parabens. We have always taken a precautionary approach, although it appears that several of the studies that link parabens with breast cancer, for instance, were flawed (or at least flimsy). The bottom line is that we would welcome much more research into this thorny subject. Some parabens can be irritating to skin. There are many alternatives to parabens appearing in formulations as manufacturers find creative ways to avoid using them – a response to the fact that so many brands prefer to be able to say their products are ‘paraben-free’.

Mica A shimmering mined mineral pigment.

Micrococcus lysate An extract of powerful enzymes, which is said to help skin recover from UV-activated skin damage. It may also help assist the natural tanning process.

Microcrystalline wax Petroleum-derived wax, widely used in nail polishes and ‘cake’ cosmetics (pressed powders, eyeshadows, etc.)

Myristyl alcohol A white crystalline ingredient derived from fatty acids, and used to create a velvety feel in hand creams, cleansers, body lotions etc.

Myristyl myristate A thickening agent and emollient in very wide use, of synthetic or semi-synthetic origin, sometimes from coconut.

PPG-2 Myristyl ether propionate A synthetic ingredient derived from Myristyl alcohol and Propionic acid; PPG is short for Polypropylene glycol and Polyoxypropylene glycol, which are both synthetic ingredients – see under ‘P‘.

+ N

Nylon-12 Nylon! As we say in the review of the product which contains this, we’re not sure what this well-known synthetic ingredient is doing in a product that was promoted to us as natural – but many products that feature in our book are a combination of botanical ingredients with synthetics – in this case, nylon (not dissimilar to the type used in crackling sheets and old-fashioned school blouses!) Usually found in mascaras (to lengthen lashes), this can however cause allergic reactions.

+ O

Octinoxate The shortened name for Octyl methoxycinnamate – see below for more info.

Octisalate The shortened name for Octyl salicylate, a UVB-absorbing sunscreen ingredient in very widespread use.

Octyl methoxycinnamate A synthetic sunscreen chemical originally derived from balsam of Peru, cocoa leaves and cinnamon leaves, among other ingredients. This is a US FDA (Food and Drink Administration) approved sunscreen and is the most popular chemical sunscreens used worldwide in suncare. (Some questions have been raised about its safety, as with other chemical sunscreens.)

Octyl palmitate Some palmitates can be pore-blocking and may also be linked with contact dermatitis; palmitate ingredients are derived from palm oil, and used to replace mineral oil.

Octyldodecanol An alcohol which spreads nicely and conditions the skin well. Can be irritating.

Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate An ester from Stearic acid and Octyldodecanol (see above).

Octyldodecyl ricinoleate A combination of Octyldodecanol and an ingredient derived from the castor oil plant, which also has good moisturising qualities.

Oleic acid Obtained from various animal and vegetable fats and oils, this can be slightly irritating to skin in some individuals.

Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic polyglyceride A synthetic ingredient created from oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids.

Oleth-3 See Oleic Acid and Carboxylic acid (under ‘C’), from which this is derived.

Oleyl Alcohol In common use in cosmetics manufacture, this is derived from fish oils – and so is not suitable for vegan cosmetics – although it can also be produced synthetically. It’s an emollient, a solvent and a carrier, which (according to some sources) can block pores and/or be irritating to skin.

Oxybenzone A synthetic sunscreen ingredient which works by absorbing UV rays into the skin; it can be an irritant, causing contact dermatitis and – ironically – photosensitivity. One controversial study published in the Lancet by Dr. Cameron Hayden and colleagues at the University of Queensland, Australia, found that Oxybenzone could be absorbed by the skin and was then excreted in urine, and may potentially be linked to hormone disruption, according to Environmental Health Perspectives.

+ P

Palmitic Acid One of the skin’s most important fatty acids, produced by the sebaceous glands. Obtained in general for cosmetic use from palm oil or vegetable tallow. It can cause contact dermatitis in some individuals.

Palmitoyl oligopeptide A synthetic ingredient made up of a mixture of various amino acids, including Lysine, Arginine, etc. Used in lipsticks, glosses and lip-plumpers, as well as moisturisers and eye creams.

Pantethine Used in moisturisers and hair products, considered to be a more potent form of Pantothenic acid (vitamin B5).

Panthenol Vitamin B complex, which is considered to be of great skin benefit – helping wound-healing and protecting against sunburn by enhancing the natural tanning process. It is also humectant, attracting water from the atmosphere, and may be taken internally as a food supplement as well as used in a vast selection of skincare and haircare products.

Panthenyl ethyl ether A vitamin B derivative.

Pantothenate Part of Vitamin B complex, found in liver, eggs, dried brewer’s yeast and royal jelly, and vital for the metabolism of fats and proteins in the body. In beauty care, it’s principally used in hair conditioners.

Parsol SLX A synthetic sunscreen. In our book, it only appears in one product – a hair conditioner, to protect against UV damage.

PCA ethyl cocoyl arginate Used for its anti-static and anti-microbial properties, this is derived from carbonic acid.

PEGs Short for Polyethylene glycol, these synthetic ingredients are usually waxy compounds: the number refers to how liquid the product is, and the higher the number, the harder the texture of the ingredient. All PEGs have been identified to have the potential to be contaminated by 1,4-dioxane, a cancer-causing agent, as well as heavy metals. However, just because they can be, it doesn’t mean they are- and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) committee has deemed that they are ‘safe for use, but added that PEG compounds ‘should not be used on damaged skin’. (You will find more comments from Professor Samuel Epstein on PEGs, in The Green Beauty Bible.) In the name – alongside PEG – you’ll find a word that gives you a clue where the original ingredient came from, before it was extremely highly-processed: rapeseed, almond, castor oil, etc.

PEG-4 rapeseedamide See PEGs, above.

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate A combination of polyethylene glycol and glyceryl cocoate (derived from coconut oil) to form a type of sugar extract. It is a mild cleansing agent and emollient that breaks up fat on the skin’s surface without stripping the skin’s natural oils or causing dryness. It rinses completely from the skin with water, and may be used in place of Sodium lauryl or Sodium laureth sulfate, which are both drying and stripping for the skin.

PEG-10 dimethicone See PEGs, above.

PEG-15 stearyl ether See PEGs, above.

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil See PEGs, above.

PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate See PEGs, above.

PEG-60 almond glycerides See PEGs, above.

PEG-100 stearate See PEGs, above.

PEG-150 distearate See PEGs, above.

PEG-200 Hydrogenated glyceryl palmate See PEGs, above.

Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate A synthetic antioxidant ingredient.

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate See Stearic acid.

Pentylene glycol From coconuts and palm, this increases moisture retentive properties in skin.

Persea gratissima unsaponifiables Derived from avocado oil. An ‘unsaponifiable’ element can be useful in soapmaking, adding moisture, texture, vitamins etc.

Phenoxyethanol Used as a fragrance ingredient as well as a preservative, this is in particularly wide use in natural skincare – and is approved (after long, hard consideration) by the Soil Association for use in organic cosmetics, as it was deemed less problematic than many, many other preservatives. However, it’s not entirely without question marks over it; it can be irritating to some people, and cause contact allergies. It is also synthetically derived – one of a handful of synthetics permitted in organic cosmetics. As other acceptable preservatives emerge, Phenoxyethanol may gradually be phased out by beauty manufacturers: watch this space.

Phenyl trimethicone A form of silicone, similar to Dimethicone, which leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth and protects against water loss.

Phospholipids Plant phospholipids – which are fatty substances – are similar to human phospholipids and are readily absorbed into the skin. Phospholipids obtained from soybean oil in the form of lecithin are used to make liposomes, which act as delivery agents for vitamins and humectants.

Phytantriol A skin- and hair-conditioning ingredient that also helps to bind water.

Phytic acid Naturally occurring in cereal grains; people who are allergic to corn could potentially have a reaction to it.

Phytosphingosine A natural, skin-identical active ingredient which effectively reduces the signs of acne, inhibits the growth of micro-organisms on the skin and reduces redness and inflamed skin

Polyaminopropyl biguanide A synthetic ingredient that functions as a preservative. You may find it in some baby products, too.

Polybutene A petroleum-derived ingredient which works as a plasticiser, so useful for transforming minerals, for instance, into a texture that works as a lipstick or gloss – because who wants to apply a powder to her lips…?

Polydecene Used in fragrances and flavourings (so it’s permitted in food, too).

Polyethylene Generally derived from petroleum, and used to stabilise products.

Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate A synthetic ester of Polyglyceryl-2 and Stearic acid, generally used as an emulsifier.

Polyglyceryl-4-oleate A synthetic ester of Oleic acid and Polyglycerin-4 (a glycerine derivative), which is used as an emulsifier, in sun protection, baby care products and moisturisers.

Polyglyceryl-10 oleate See Polyglyceryl-4-oleate, above.

Polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate See Polyglyceryl-4-oleate Polyglyceryl-4-oleate – similar ingredient, similar purpose, different original source (in this case, a combination of a Glucose-derived ingredient and Stearic acid).

Polyglyceryl-6 dioleate See above.

Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate See above.

Polyglyceryl-diisostearate An emulsifier derived (in part) from Stearic acid, used to stop oil-in-water formulations from separating.

Polyhydroxystearic acid A widely-used, synthetic ‘suspending’ agent, which (like many ingredients) has its roots in Stearic acid. (Though it’s slightly a case of ‘Once Upon A Time…’)

Polylysine Used to create a film, mostly in hair products – see Lysine.

Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether A skin-conditioning synthetic ingredient which has a polymer-like action – so it’s film-forming.

Polyphenols Plant antioxidants, with an anti-free-radical action.

Polyquaternium-7 Polyquaternium ingredients – numbered 1 to 14 – are Quaternary Ammonium Compounds, with a wide range of uses: preservatives, antimicrobials, surfactants, and most usually as ‘film-formers’, on the skin. They’re synthetic in origin, derived from ammonia.

Polyquaternium-10 See Polyquaternium-7, above.

Polyquaternium-47 See Polyquaternium-7, above.

Polysilicone-7 Silicone-derived ingredients, usually used in lipsticks.

Polysylicone hexyldecyl stearate See above.

Polysilicone-11 See Polysilicone-7, above. (There’s a wide range of Polysilicones, with different numbers attached.)

Polysorbate 20 Polysorbates are commonly-used emulsifiers and stabilisers, made from sorbitol – a sugar alcohol – or from Lauric acid (which is derived from coconuts). Generally this group of ingredients is considered non-toxic, although some members of the family have been linked to irritation and sensitisation; some Polysorbate ingredients are used in processed foods.

Polysorbate 60 See above.

Polysorbate 80 A cleanser found in many commercial hair products, and said by some to promote hair growth, by encouraging the release of histamine. See above.

Polytetrafluorethylene Teflon! What can we say? We’d definitely rather not find this in a cosmetic that is purporting to be natural, but almost all the make-up in this book is a blend of botanical and synthetic ingredients – and all of it is basically more natural than what you’ll find in the mainstream make-up lines.

Potassium cetyl phosphate A potassium salt from a mixture of esters, including Phosophoric acid and Cetyl alcohol. Appears in everything from eye creams to moisturisers, sunscreens to fake tans.

Potassium hydroxide A highly alkaline ingredient used principally in soapmaking, but also in liquid soaps, creams, shaving products, etc. It’s harmful and irritant in high doses so there are restrictions on the levels in cosmetics, below which it’s not considered a problem.

Potassium magnesium aspartate Mostly used in bath salts, a salt from the minerals Potassium and Magnesium.

Potassium phosphate A salt that works as a humectant (attracting moisture) and as a pH adjuster.

Potassium carbomer A synthetic thickening agent used to create gel-like products, which according to the most recent info has no known toxicity.

Potassium sorbate A preservative that is very popular in natural cosmetic formulation and allowed under organic regulations. It’s non-toxic but in high concentrations can be a skin irritant.

PPG-2 myristyl ether propionate For more info see Myristyl alcohol under ‘M’.

PPG-15 dtearyl ether A synthetic skin conditioning agent derived from Stearic acid.

Propionic acid A synthetic preservative.

Propylene carbonate Used as a solvent or dilutent, a synthetic ingredient which is also found in some adhesives and even paint strippers! It is also a known irritant; however, in cosmetics it appears way down the ingredients list.

+ Q

Quaternary ammonium compounds A large family of ingredients which can be used as antimicrobials, preservatives, surfactants (for their cleansing power) and to adjust the texture and viscosity of cosmetics. These synthetic compounds can cause contact dermatitis in some individuals.

Quaternium-18 bentonite The Quaternium family contains ingredients used for antistatic and antimicrobial purposes, as preservatives and as surfactants – as well as thickening agents. In this case, Quaternium-18 is derived from Bentonite clay. One particular member of the Quaternium family – the preservative Quaternium-15 – is considered extremely problematic (NB it does not appear in any products in The Green Beauty Bible): it has caused skin rashes and allergic reactions and is one of the most frequent sensitisers in cosmetic use.

Quaternium-18 hectorite See above, derived from a mineral called Hectorite.

Quaternium-80 See above.

Quaternium-90 bentonite See above.

+ R

Somewhat bizarrely there are no ingredients beginning with ‘R’! (Which meant Jo could have a very welcome sit-down at this point while compiling the A-Z.)

+ S

Salicylic Acid Some studies have shown that salicylic acid is less irritating than skin care products containing Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (to which it’s closely related), while providing similar improvement in skin texture and colour. It’s also been studied for its effect on skin that has aged prematurely due to exposure to ultraviolet rays from the sun. It exfoliates skin, and so may leave it temporarily more vulnerable to sun damage.

Sclerotium gum A natural gum that can be Used as a thickener, stabiliser and to improve spreadability and texture of a product.

Silica Silica naturally occurs in 12% of all rocks (sand, for instance, is a silica). The porous granules produced when silica is dried and heated in a vacuum are used for their absorbency, and also to colour products. Silica is the most natural of this type of ingredient you’ll find in beauty products; silicone derivatives – Dimethicone, etc. – have been modified in a more complicated way.

Sodium ascorbate Vitamin C.

Sodium beeswax Fatty acids derived from beeswax.

Sodium Benzoate Also known as Benzoic acid; an antiseptic and preservative also used in margarine, bottled soft drinks etc., which is particularly useful for preventing the development of yeasts. It is synthetically derived and, like most preservatives, can be irritating. However, after much consideration, this is an ingredient permitted in organic cosmetics by the Soil Association, based on the principle that many beauty products do require preservation, for safety – and this is one of a small ‘portfolio’ available to organic formulators.

Sodium cetearyl sulfate A salt derived from a blend of Cetyl alcohol and Stearyl alcohol, with the addition of Sulfuric acid. It’s in the same family as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, and has been found to be irritating – but not as irritating as SLS. Used mostly in products for its cleansing action.

Sodium citrate Used to balance the pH in the formulation. It’s the sodium salt of Citric acid.

Sodium chloride Common table salt.

Sodium cocoamphoacetate A coconut-derived cleanser used in shampoos and hair conditioners.

Sodium coceth sulfate A semi-synthetic ingredient derived from the fatty acids in coconut oil, which are then modified using ethylene oxide. Used for its cleansing action in shampoos, baby washes etc. Can be irritating.

Sodium cocoate An ingredient derived from coconut oil, used as a cleansing agent – mostly in soaps and facial cleansers.

Sodium coco sulfate A coconut-based ingredient often used as an alternative for Sodium lauryl sulfate, because it is far less drying to skin, and less irritating.

Sodium cocoyl glutamate A mixture of soap-like substances, derived from fatty acids which are obtained from coconut oil, together with glutamic acid (which is an amino acid – one of the building blocks of protein).

Sodium cocoyl isethionate A mild, foaming surfactant derived from coconut which leaves skin with a silky feel. Considered safe for use in rinse-off products.

Sodium dehydroacetate A synthetic preservative and fungicide which is sometimes used in tandem with parabens, for effectiveness; European regulations say it should not be used in products around the mouth or lips (i.e. lipsticks).

Sodium ethylparaben One of the ‘contentious’ paraben family of preservatives, widely used for its anti-fungal action. Few ingredients trigger such violent debate as parabens. We have always taken a precautionary approach, although it appears that several of the studies that link parabens with breast cancer, for instance, were flawed (or at least flimsy). Some parabens can however be irritating to the skin.The bottom line is that we would welcome much more research into this thorny subject. There are many alternatives to parabens appearing in formulations as manufacturers find creative ways to avoid using them – partly a response to the fact that so many brands now want to label their products ‘paraben-free’.

Sodium gluconate Fermenting glucose produces this potent white/yellow powder, which is used as a stabiliser. It’s approved as a food additive (E576) – but is also used in some metal cleaners and paint strippers, obviously in much, much higher quantities!

Sodium hyaluronate Derived from hyaluronic acid, a valuable ingredient in moisturisers and skin creams, capable of binding 1,800 times its own weight in water.

Sodium hydroxide Caustic soda, used in all soaps and as an alkali and emulsifier in cleanser, shampoos, shaving soaps etc.; it readily absorbs water. It’s also used in the food industry (for instance as a glaze on pretzels!) In high concentrations it can cause skin irritation but in cosmetics is present generally in teensy traces.

Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate A synthetic preservative.

Sodium isostearoyl lactylate A sodium salt with Stearic acid and Lactic acid as its source; may be irritating in high doses, but is only found in very small quantities in cosmetics.

Sodium lactate Naturally occurring on skin, this is used as a substitute for glycerine, because it’s moisturising and moisture-binding; it also stops products from becoming too acid.

Sodium laureth sulfate Often used as an alternative to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate – which is a highly-irritating cleansing ingredient – but this has question marks of its own. (It can also be irritating, although is considered to be less so.) This synthetic derivative of coconut oil is produced by a process called ‘ethoxylation’, and during that process can be contaminated to produce 1,4-dioxane – a carcinogen – although that’s absolutely not to say it will be, provided effective controls are in place.

Sodium lauroyl oat aminoacids An ingredient derived from oat protein, generally used for its cleansing action.

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate A mild, biodegradeable surfactant, widely used in natural cosmetics as an alternative to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate – although again, not entirely without problems as it potentially enhances penetration of other ingredients. (Detergents tend to present challenges because essentially, you’re interfering with the skin’s natural barrier by washing away natural oils. As soon as you start to do that, that’s where problems begin – but if you’re like us, you’re not about to give up washing!) Used primarily in body washes and hair shampoos.

Sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate A surfactant (detergent) used in body washes, shampoos, cleansers, which is generally regarded as much gentler and less irritating than Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and so is increasingly making an appearance in more natural bodycare and haircare.

Sodium magnesium silicate A binder and bulking ingredient, most often used in make-up products (powders, etc.), created from silica and magnesium.

Sodium mannose phosphate A skin conditioner derived from sugar (though like many other ingredients, it goes through quite a few chemical processes before it becomes a useful ingredient for moisturisers, sunscreens, eye creams etc.)

Sodium metabisulfite A synthetic compound which may be an irritant, used as a preservative and as an antioxidant.

Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate A coconut-derived mild cleansing agent, used in cleansing creams, lotions, shampoos etc.

Sodium methylparaben Another of the ‘contentious’ paraben family of preservatives, widely used for its anti-fungal action. Few ingredients trigger such violent debate as parabens. See Sodium ethylparaben for our views.

Sodium PCA A powerful humectant – or moisture-attracting ingredient which increases softness. It exists naturally in the skin and is considered non-allergenic.

Sodium phosphate Used to help maintain pH balance in a product. Without water, it’s said to be irritating to skin, but has no known toxicity, and is used as a food additive.

Sodium phytate Also known as Phytic Acid, and most widely used in oral care; it occurs naturally in the seeds of cereal grains and is derived from corn, commercially. Can be used for the treatment of hard water. Anyone who has an allergic reaction to corn might have a problem with this.

Sodium propylparaben One of the ‘contentious’ paraben family of preservatives, widely used for its anti-fungal action. Few ingredients trigger such violent debate as parabens. See Sodium ethylparaben for our views.

Sodium stearate A white, soapy powder that is considered non-irritating to skin. See Stearic acid (Sodium stearate is 92.82 per cent Stearic acid).

Sodium steroyl lactylate An ingredient derived from lactic acid, also used as a food additive.

Sorbitan isostearate An emulsifier used for creams, lotions, sun products etc. – can be semi-synthetic or synthetic. The Sorbitan family can cause hives or contact dermatitis in some users, but as we always say, just because something can be problematic, doesn’t mean it will be.

Sorbitan olivate Derived from olive oil and Sorbitol; an emulsifier used in a wide range of products. See above for comments about products including Sorbitan.

Sorbitan sesquioleate A synthetic or semi-synthetic compound, again used as an emulsifier – see above for comments about products including Sorbitan.

Sorbitan stearate This can also be synthetic or semi-synthetic, originating from Sorbitol and used to make products look ‘glossy’. See above for comments about products including Sorbitan.

Sorbitol Obtained from the leaves and sometimes the berries of the mountain ash tree, as well as from fruits like grapes, cherries, plums – and seaweed and algae, too. This is a humectant, attracting moisture to the skin and giving it a velvety feel.

Soybean sterols A useful moisturising and emulsifying ingredient derived from soybeans. (You might want to ask the manufacturers of products including this ingredient to ensure that they do not use Genetically Modified (GM) soya.) It is known not to block pores.

Squalene (a.k.a. Squalane). A highly skin-compatible lubricant and moisturiser. (It works so well because skin itself is 25 per cent squalene.) Can be created by the hydrogenation of shark oil or other fish oils, although many players in the beauty industry recently pledged to switch from sharks as a source, as their numbers globally are becoming depleted – and squalene can also be sourced from plants.

Stearalkonium chloride A synthetic anti-static ingredient used to help de-tangle hair and help brushes and combs to move more smoothly through it. Labels should say ‘Avoid contact with the eyes’ (which is anyway generally always the case with shampoos and conditioners).

Stearalkonium hectorite Created by a reaction between Hectorite (a clay-derived mineral) and Stearalkonium chloride (see below).

Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine A surfactant and skin conditioner that is often used in baby products for its apparent gentleness; however, it has been linked with allergic dermatitis and at least one source cites it as a ‘cancer suspect’. We caution against paranoia when reading about ingredients which mention the word ‘carcinogen’ or ‘cancer’: many of the things we encounter in everyday life are potential carcinogens, but the most serious risk is usually for people who handle these substances in large quantities during manufacturing. However, a purer, simpler lifestyle with healthy food, exercise, high-quality rest and a few minutes a day of sun exposure – as we counsel in The Green Beauty Bible - will help boost your overall immunity and overall wellbeing, and promote general good health.

Steareth-2 The Polyethelyne glycol ethers of Stearyl alcohol (well, that’s the science bit) – it’s an emulsifier, which helps to keep products stable. The number after the word Steareth indicates the degree of liquidity from 4 (thin) to 100 (solid). See also PEGs.

Steareth-21 See Steareth-2, and also PEGs.

Stearic acid A white, waxy natural fatty acid used as an emollient agent and to keep ingredients from separating; it occurs naturally in bark, butters and animal fats and oils. (NB If you are vegan, you might want to enquire whether companies which use this ingredient source it from plants, or from animal fats.)

Steardimonium chloride Short for ‘panthenyl hydroxypropyl Steardimonium chloride’ – a synthetic ingredient used in haircare which appears in many ‘more natural’ brands’ formulations.

Stearyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol is used as an emollient (skin softener), emulsifier, and thickener in creams and lotions.

Sucrose cocoate A soothing, anti-irritating emulsifier, derived from plain old sugar.

Sucrose palmitate A semi-synthetic ingredient derived from sugar; some palmitates have been linked (as we have mentioned elsewhere) with contact dermatitis.

Sulphur An antibacterial and antiseptic agent which is a potential irritant and sensitiser, although ironically it also stimulates healing when used on skin rashes!

Superoxide dismutase (a.k.a. SOD) A super-powerful antioxidant enzyme which can inhibit free radical production, and act as a ‘scavenger’, helping to prevent oxidation. SOD converts the superoxide free radical into hydrogen peroxide, which is then broken down into oxygen and water.

Stearoxy dimethicone (Also known as Methyl stearoxy dimethicone). See Dimethicone under ‘D‘.

Synthetic beeswax We have to ask: why would anyone want to use synthetic beeswax when the real thing is readily available? Perhaps to create vegan cosmetics is all we can think. However, this is just what it says on the box: a petrochemically-derived synthetic version of beeswax. End of story.

+ T

Talc A finely-ground mineral (from magnesium silicate) which is used as the base for many pressed and loose powders, eyeshadows, etc. As we explain in The Green Beauty Bible: ‘ You probably had it rubbed into your derrière as a baby. As a grown-up you’ve probably applied it to your face, because it’s a common ingredient in make-up. Many natural brands avoid it, however, because it can be contaminated with potentially carcinogenic asbestos. But it’s not that straightforward. The super-natural German brand Logona, for instance, does use talc – but each batch is first certified by an independent lab to be asbestos-free. If you’re concerned about talc in your make-up, e-mail the company that makes it for their policy on sourcing and testing talc.’

Tetradibutyl pentaerithrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamateA synthetic ingredient in the Cinnamate family, used in foundations, sun protection, moisturisers etc.; C innamates can be allergenic.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate A vitamin-C-derived antioxidant and skin-conditioning ingredient.

Tetrasodium EDTA This synthetic ingredient is what’s known as a ‘chelating agent’, used to soften water; it bonds with minerals which promote microbial growth, so it acts as a preservative.

Thymol Obtained from aromatic essential oils of thyme, lavender and oregano, this has to be listed on labels because it can cause allergic reactions.

Titanium dioxide (CI 77891) Incredibly widely used in powders, foundations, sun protection etc. (over 7,000 products on the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Database contain Titanium dioxide). It occurs naturally as a mineral. Larger particles of Titanium dioxide sit on the skin’s surface, bouncing light off – and so helping to prevent against sun damage. However, according to the Skin Deep database, over 70% of sunscreens featuring this ingredient feature nano-particles – tiny particles which may not only sit on the surface but can potentially more readily penetrate the skin, and which have health question marks over them simply because nobody knows the long-term effects of exposure, or whether there is a risk of toxicity or build-up in the organs. (Nanotechnology is a relatively new science.) In The Green Beauty Biblewe list several sunscreen products which, so manufacturers promise, do not contain nano-particles.

Tocopoheryl acetate A form of vitamin E.

Tribehenin Derived from Glycerine and Behenic acid, and used as a skin conditioner in cleansers, sun protection, etc.

Tricalcium phosphate Used in toothpastes and also as an anti-caking agent, and as a dietary supplement.

Trideceth-9 See Polyethylene Glycols (PEGS).

Triethoxycaprylysilane A synthetic ingredient that functions as a binding agent and emulsifier (see Silicone), and is used in sunscreens, moisturisers, etc.

Triethanolamine (TEA) This ingredient is used as a pH balancer in cosmetic preparations in a variety of different products – ranging from skin lotion, eye gels, moisturizers, shampoos, shaving foams etc. As with any amines, it may have the potential to create nitrosamines, but with the low concentrations used in cosmetic products the chances of that happening is very slim and it is further theorized that nitrosamines cannot penetrate the skin.

Triethyl citrate Citric acid, also used as a food ingredient to prevent rancidity.

Triheptanoin Skin conditioning and emollient originally derived from grapes; one study suggested that this ingredient is a penetration enhancer which may make it easier for other ingredients to penetrate the skin.

Trihydroxystearin Mostly used as a thickener and skin conditioner, derived from Glycerine and Hydroxystearic acid (see Stearic acid).

Trimyristin Synthetic or semi-synthetic ingredient which is used as a moisturiser and emollient; some Myristates are comedogenic, meaning they may block pores and trigger acne.

Trioctyldodecyl citrate See Citric acid and Lauric acid, which are the sources of the ingredient.

Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate A naturally-derived chelating agent. Some animal tests show effects on the reproductive and nervous (as well as irritation) at high doses (and no, we do not approve of animal testing IN ANY FORM!); however, according to the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database, this is a ‘Low hazard’ (it scores 1/10).

Trisodium HEDTA A preservative; there is some suggestion this may act as a penetration enhancer, which may make it easier for other ingredients to penetrate the skin.

Tromethamine A synthetic ingredient used mostly to maintain a product’s pH; as with any amines, it may have the potential to create nitrosamines (which can be carcinogenic) – but with the low concentrations used in cosmetic products the chances of that happening is very slim and it is further theorized that nitrosamines cannot penetrate the skin.

Tromethamine stearate See above.

+ U

Ultramarines (CI 77007) A bright blue mined mineral pigment.

Urea Urea can be naturally-derived (urine is Urea!) or synthesised (and there’s no way to tell from the label), from two raw materials: ammonia and carbon dioxide. In cosmetics, urea attracts and retains moisture in the skin; use of this ingredient in a product can reduce the need for other preservatives since it is anti-microbial. In high quantities (higher than you’d find in cosmetics), it can be irritating to eyes or skin, but in low doses, it is anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and deodorising.

+ V

VP/hexadecene copolymer A synthetic ingredient which is ‘film-forming’ (the word ‘polymer’ is the clue there), used in sunscreens in particular, to make them waterproof, and to make lipsticks stay put for longer.

+ W

No ingredients beginning with ‘W’...! (Water appears on labels in Latin, as Aqua…)

+ X

Xanthan gum A naturally-derived gum used to form thick mixtures and gels in water.

+ Y

No ‘Y’ ingredients, just FYI.

+ Z

Zeolite Absorbent and deodorant – also known as Aluminium silicate; see ‘A‘ – here.

Zinc A white metal mineral source, and also a nutrient in many foodstuffs. A sunblocking ingredient which sits on the skin’s surface and bounces light away.

Zinc gluconate Derived from Zinc and Gluconic acid, an ambery-coloured liquid produced from corn and used as a dietary supplement, as well as in cosmetics.

Zinc magnesium aspartate Zinc combined with Magnesium aspartate (which in turn comes from the mineral Magnesium, and Aspartic acid – which occurs naturally in sugars and molasses, but may also be synthesised).

Zinc ricinoleate Used as a fungicide, stabiliser and emulsifier, from Zinc, combined with an ingredient which originally comes from the castor oil plant.

Zinc stearate Also known as ‘Zinc soap’. A mixture of the zinc salts from Palmitic acid and Stearic acid; helps give cosmetics ‘staying power’ by helping them to adhere. Can be used to colour cosmetics and is also used in bath preparations, hand creams, lotions, and baby powders, although inhalation of the airborne powder may cause lung problems.