Enjoy a Gossip Girls afternoon for you and three friends from Paul Edmonds worth over £300 - and six Biolustré treatments for runners-up, each worth £60
World famous hair stylist John Frieda spells
out the vital guildelines.
There is a moment when you know you are ready for a new look.
Logic seldom plays a part in this life-changing decision;
more often it’s a subconscious bid for freedom. You may
not be able to leave your safe job, with mortgage and pension
rights, or your nice but uninspiring man, or even buy a new
wardrobe, but no one can stop you going for a new hairstyle.
Practically speaking, shearing off your mane has a lot going
for it. It boosts the hair’s condition, whatever type
you have, gives movement and bounce (once it hits your shoulders,
hair lies stock still) and makes hair easier to maintain.
Most importantly, a flattering cut can enhance every face
shape.
Satisfaction, however, is not guaranteed. Most of us have
gone into a salon buoyed up with the hope that we will be
transformed by Mr Golden Scissorhands, then slunk out afterwards
longing for an all-concealing cloche hat. So what goes wrong?
Quite simply,
G. Scissorhands, who may actually be a megastar in the styling
world, decides to plonk a hairstyle on your head which does
not suit you. Even more astonishingly, you let him.
‘There are a lot of good hairdressers, but there’s
always some risk in having your hair cut, and many people
have had distressing experiences,’ acknowledges John
Frieda. He advises: ‘Never ever have your hair cut the
day before something important - get it done a week or two
before so that if something goes wrong you have a chance to
do something about it.’ Personal fashion consultant Amanda
Platt advises you to take charge yourself: ‘Be mistress
of your own hairstyle.’ Remember, you want a hairstyle,
not necessarily the latest fashion cut. ‘If a cut is
right for you, it’s right absolutely,’ points out
John Frieda. ‘After all, your face shape doesn’t
change with the seasons.’
For many women, the ideal hairdresser is as much, if not more,
of a prize than the most engaging escort. Be prepared to put
in time. At a consultation, thoroughly discuss what the stylist
proposes doing, suggests John Frieda. (The consultation should
be free but be prepared to fit in with his or her schedule.)
If you don’t like the stylist or the salon, don’t
go back.
If the worst happens and you hate your shorn mane, it’s
not a life sentence. Hair grows at the rate of 15cm (6in)
a year, so it will take two years maximum to get it back to
shoulder length. But, however desperate you are for it to
grow, do have it trimmed regularly. Most hairdressers suggest
a trim every four weeks for short hair, four to six weeks
for medium-length hair and up to eight weeks for long hair.
Before You Cut
• Schedule time for a consultation
before you commit yourself. Most stylists work to a tight
schedule, and can’t always take the time they should
to discuss what you want for your hair. Salons should be able
to book you in for a ten-minute (free) chat to talk things
over before the appointment (maybe even several days before).
• Make sure you choose a supportive
stylist. It’s worth shopping around - and having more
than one consultation if necessary - to discover someone who
sincerely listens to you and is on your side. You shouldn’t
feel shy or uncomfortable about showing them a photo that’s
dramatically different from your current look; it may be just
what’s needed to pep up your appearance. They should
also be able to give you sound advice on any hair problems,
such as condition. If ever you sense that your stylist’s
ego is getting between them and the best interests of your
hair, it’s time to move on.
How To Look At Your Hair
It’s not creativity you need when assessing what hairstyle
will suit you, explains John Frieda, but the ability to see
yourself as you really are. First of all, tie your hair back
so that you can study the shape of your face. Then, if possible,
he advises standing in between two long mirrors placed at
a 45° angle from each other: ‘Look at the reflection
of your image in the second mirror so that you see yourself
as others see you. You can be more objective like this.’
What to Look For
When thinking about different styles, consider three criteria,
says Frieda. Any hairstyle problem you have will fall into
these.
1) Face Shape
This is defined by your hairline, by the width and length
of your face and by its proportions (how features relate to
each other). Remember also to look at your face and neck from
the side. The basic face shapes are:
A classic oval face: this can take
any style: with the other face shapes, the aim should be to
create the illusion of an oval shape for the face and head
silhouette.
A round face: the hair should be
cut onto the cheeks to shade them and narrow down the sides.
A soft feathery look is the most flattering - you don’t
want a flat sleek look.
A long face: this can be made to
look less long with a fringe and a chin-length cut which is
fuller at the bottom to add width. Anything but a long straight
bob, which will make you appear even more long-faced (and
maybe even miserable).
A square face: avoid symmetry, short
crops or anything geometric and go for soft curves which will
hide the jaw.
Heart-shaped faces: these look good
with a kicking-out bob, which gives volume round the bottom
of the face.
TIP The
way to disguise a high, low or uneven hairline is to have a
fringe. Nicky Clarke, the man who famously de-frumped Fergie,
points out there are ‘At least 50 ways of cutting fringes,
from the Cleopatra block to Claudia Schiffer’s wisps…so
don’t decide a fringe won’t suit you.’
The
Crucial Jawline
The distance and angle between your earlobe and your chin
is the defining factor in deciding the length of your
hair, according to John Frieda. ‘It’s the most
important proportion,’ he believes.
‘If that distance is short and you’ve got a
sharp angle where the jaw turns and goes almost horizontal,
like Audrey Hepburn or Isabella Rossellini, you can wear
virtually any length hair or have it swept up.’
‘If
your jaw is long and sloping like, say, Jerry Hall, you
can’t wear really short hair - it exposes your jaw
and is unflattering, whether it’s a cheek-length
Chanel bob or drawn back into a very severe style,’
says John Frieda.
TIP Fringes
can disguise patches of thinning hair at the temples. Grading
the sides of longer hair from the fringe downwards can be very
flattering - it’s the gentle, casual look you get when
you are growing out a fringe.
2) Head Shape
Look at yourself full on and sideways, and at the relation of
your head to your body.
Ask yourself: what is the shape of my head? Do I need more height
or less? A little more or a little less width across my face?
What does my head look like in proportion to my body?
A good haircut doesn’t start and end above your neck. The
ratio of your head to your body is vital. The classic example
of what can go wrong was Charlene Tilton in Dallas, whose long
wavy hair romped around a head that disappeared almost straight
into her elevated bosom and short body. You also need to consider
head size, neck length and width of shoulders. A close-cut Eton
crop on a small head with long neck and wide shoulders is unlikely
to look balanced. Examine your clothes too: a big winter coat
may look great with a swinging page-boy bob, but will hopelessly
overwhelm a much shorter-layered urchin cut.
TIP Michael
Rasser of Michaeljohn recommends slimming down a thick neck
by taking the hair behind the ears, then bringing it forward
to curve softly onto the neck.
TIP For
the longer jaw, Frieda recommends an adaptable chin-length cut:
‘Though it could be slightly shorter, say, level with the
crease between your mouth and the bottom of the chin. It’s
worth scrutinising your chin; if it sticks out you may need
an extra half inch in length as well as volume at the bottom;
try also drying the ends under to soften the jawline.’
3) Surface and
Texture of Hair
What styles should you consider to make the best of your hair
type?
For instance, if your hair is fine and flyaway, think about
having a short, layered cut - it’s easier to manage and
will give your hair body. Talk to your hairdresser about how
he/she will layer your hair. ‘The layers shouldn’t
be of equal length,’ says John Frieda. ‘The problem
areas are in a circle going from your forehead right round your
head, where the head is sloping down and the hair grows in a
downwards direction so there is no natural lift. So it’s
vital the layers there should be shorter to give you height
and volume, gradually getting longer all the way down - unless
you want it very wispy at the bottom.’
If you have thick, uncontrollably frizzy or curly hair, the
number one rule according to John Frieda is to avoid extreme
layering. This type of hair expands upwards and outwards at
every opportunity, and needs its own weight to stay down. However,
gradual layers may be desirable around the hairline (to soften
it) and at the bottom of the hair (to stop it flying out). Whether
you cut it short or long depends primarily on the face shape,
but a very short style, if it suits you, may make life easier.
Maintaining good condition is essential for all frizzy hair,
particularly if you have long pre-Raphaelite tresses. Since
this type of hair tends to dry and split at the ends, John Frieda
recommends trimming it every month; this is even more important,
he insists, if it is very long.
TO BRUSH OR NOT TO BRUSH?
Our grandmothers would argue that brushing hair was its best
beauty treatment. But that was when brushing was hair’s
only conditioner. Now that we have a galaxy of products to
stimulate shine, brushing has come under fire for damaging
hair, with some experts saying brushes should only be used
as styling tools.
Top colourist Jo Hansford, however, protests that she, like
many of us, would miss tipping her head upside down and giving
her hair a good brush. She prefers a wooden brush with a cushion
base and soft, flexible wooden bristles. A good solution,
according to Dr Hugh Rushton, is always to detangle your hair
before brushing by combing it, from the ends up, with a wide
tooth comb. Hard rubber (vulcanite) combs, such as the range
by Kent, are anti-static, easy to clean and moderately priced.
How To Speak Your Hairdresser’s
Language - In Pictures
Pictures taken from a magazine can be a great way of communicating
with your stylist. Trying to describe the look you want can
be tough because words such as ‘feathering’, ‘wispy’,
‘layers’, ‘fringe’ can mean a different
look to you and a stylist. Think what happens, for instance,
when you ask for only ‘half an inch off’; it can
show all too disastrously how your mental tape measure differs
from your hairdresser’s. A picture can give vital clues.
Here are a few tips to making it work best for you.
• Before you go to the stylist,
consider whether it is in fact the mood of the picture and
the overall look that has seduced you. Separate the model’s
clothes and face from the haircut, and see if it still seems
as appealing. (Having your hair cut like Catherine Deneuve’s
won’t turn you into her - besides, we’ve heard that
she goes to the hairdresser’s once a day, sometimes twice.)
• Using the guides we have
given, work out whether the model’s cut will suit your
face shape, hairline, bone structure and neck length. Discuss
these points with the stylist at the consultation.
• When you do talk to the stylist,
also ask if that cut will suit your hair texture. We always
want the kind of hair we haven’t got - but even Nicky
Clarke can’t turn fine, limp hair into a Farrah-esque
mane. It may be that you could achieve the look in the picture
but it would take 45 minutes of daily styling. Remember, the
model probably has great hair naturally - apart from the fact
that it was twirled and tweaked for hours to look that way
for the shoot. Just outside the frame of the picture is the
hairdresser with comb and spray can at the ready.
JOHN FRIEDA’S BLOWDRYING TIPS
• Get your hair to the point
of being almost dry before you start styling. The critical
time is when it’s turning from wet to dry - whatever
you do then will get locked into the hair.
• Start with your hairline;
that’s the bit that shows.
• Do the hair on top of your
head before the underneath. Imagine looking down on your head
and see it as a big diamond shape. Again, it’s the important
part that everyone• will see.
• If you’ve got time,
then dry the underneath.
JOHN FRIEDA’S
STYLING TIPS
• Pump up the volume on dead
straight hair by applying thickening lotion near to the roots
and dry with your head upside down. Avoid using too many styling
products.
• Use a thickening spray at the
roots and a finishing spray to control fine, flyaway hair. You
need to avoid static, so don’t brush excessively or blowdry
on a hot setting. Also try washing your brush or comb before
use, then shaking dry.
• De-frizz bushy hair with serum
products that coat the hair in a fine, light film (Frizz-Ease
is the bestselling product in America). Don’t towel dry
and avoid heated styling tools. Once you’ve styled your
hair, keep out of steamy bathrooms.
• As there are very few truly
efficient styling brushes available to private customers, ask
your hairdresser to get professional brushes for you: he/she
will know exactly which ones you need.
TIPS Use a brush with a rounded
cushion, which stops hair being tugged by the bristles
• Brush tangled hair from the
ends; if you start at the top, you’ll just pull the tangles
into a clump
• Always use your brush gently;
try not to pull or twist the hair too much, especially when
blowdrying.
The
Crucial Jawline 