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Brows should always be well groomed. Even Brow Queen
Brooke Shields plucks her strays. Make-up artist Carol Shaw
(creator of the LORAC range) suggests having your brows shaped
by a professional first, to get the right arch, and then maintaining
them at home, plucking stragglers that fall below the curve.
The Secrets of a Great Tweeze...
Natural daylight is best,
so sit near a window and use a hand-held magnifying mirror.
Cleanse the area thoroughly,
removing any last trace of cleansing product with toner or
rosewater, so that the surface isnt greasy.
Using a brow pencil, draw
in the brows natural line, to act as a guide and prevent
over-plucking.
Gently pull the skin of the
outer edge of your eyebrow up and out so that you can see
the browbone, and use it as a guide. Brows should extend a
bit beyond each corner of your eyes, so dont pluck too
much from either end - and dont pluck more than one
hair at a time, or youll end up with bald patches.
Pluck stray hairs first,
using a sharp tweezer with fine points. Make-up artists all
swear by Tweezermans.
Always tweeze from underneath
the brow, never the top, following the natural shape and plucking
hair out in the direction it grows.
Start at the middle of the
brow and work towards your ear, then work from the middle
in towards your nose. Make sure the arch is highest at the
centre of your eye.
Swipe tweezed brows with
a cotton bud dipped in pure tea tree oil - natures perfect
antiseptic.
Be warned: continual plucking
will eventually make the hairs grow more and more slowly,
until they stop growing altogether. Avoid over-zealous plucking,
because youre bound to want to change the shape of your
brows at some stage in the future - and you may not be able
to grow them back.
Perfect Brows
Should the colour of your
eyebrows match your hair? I prefer brows the same as
hair or a little lighter, declares Carol Shaw. If
brows are much darker, you look like youre scowling.
Kevyn Aucoin likes brows
a couple of shades lighter than hair:
I take a cream bleach and apply it to the eyebrows,
leaving it on anywhere from one to 15 minutes, depending how
light I want them to be. I check by wiping the bleach from
a tiny part of the eyebrows. Leaving it on too long can irritate
the skin, so I err on the side of caution. If the skin is
sensitive, I remove the bleach early. If I go too far in the
other direction, the eyebrows can always be dyed back easily
to their normal shade.
To define brows, Use
light, feathery strokes whether youre using a pencil
- which shouldnt be too soft - or powder, which you
should apply with an eyeliner brush following the direction
of the hairs, advises Mary Greenwell.
Make-up artist Vincent Longo
uses pencil first on brows, then matching powder shadow. That
fixes the brow for the whole day.
To highlight the browbone
and define the brow, some make-up artists draw a line underneath
the brow with a fat concealer stick, then blend it with a
Q-tip.
Many make-up artists prefer
brow colour in powdered form, rather than a pencil, to get
a softer and prettier finish. There are now special brow powders
- try Colourings, Estée Lauder and Chanel - which all
have a higher wax content, for staying power.
If you do want to use a pencil,
look for one with a built-in brush, so you can groom any wandering
hairs.
Once youve made up
your brows, you may want to use a special brow gel - although
a touch of hairspray, sprayed onto a toothbrush and very lightly
brushed through the brows, also does the trick.
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